lhasa apso facto - december 15, 2006
i finally got out for some real experience of this strange and beautiful city today, accompanied by my latest mate, Prakisha, a young Nepali woman who has lived in Scarborough since she was 10. she joined up with the Child Haven Travelling Caravan in Bangladesh, where she had been volunteering in the home there since october 18.
our day started with a visit into the true heart of old Lhasa, into the Jokhang, surrounded--sometimes overwhelmed--by pilgrims bearing lamps and urns of butter to keep the many chapels lit and filled with yak butter soot, breathing ancient faith. i somehow found the courage to offer three from-standing-to-hands-and-knees prostrations before entering the temple. surrounded and stared at by people of such deep and almost impenetrable faith was a moment of true wonder for me, but it was really for Lungre and Sonam. i have felt their presence constantly here.
we tried to visit the Dropenling Handicraft Development Center, part of the Tibet Artisan Initiative, deep in the maze of streets and lanes of old Lhasa, but arrived to find a notice on the door advising us that it is closed for the "winter" season. i had hoped to support the initiative, but will settle for encouraging anyone reading this to check it out if you're ever in Lhasa. (i consoled myself by finding a gift...for someone...made by the Tibet Association for the Deaf.)
in the afternoon, for more comprehensive exterior photo-ops, we revisited The Potala, which ranks as the most photogenic architectural monument i've yet encountered. there may be others lurking in other, non-euclidian corners of the globe. i don't know if i could cope with the wonder.
Prakisha was craving french fries, so we ducked into a Dicos, sort of a Chinese amalgam of KFC and Macdonald's. i saved my container. you'll all understand why when you see it. (i couldn't find a link to their webpage, but i've got a photo....and a fry container.)
i'm a bit anxious about returning to kathmandu tomorrow. it still crackles with the scent of failure and it also means i have only a few days to make some more concrete plans for india. as The Reluctant Planner, i feel queasy. in any event, if we can change our tickets, Bonnie has asked me to fly to delhi with her on december 20 rather than december 21 since she has more work to do there. so my solo journey will truly begin on december 22. i'm still hoping to be in Rajasthan for christmas, though i may not get as far as Jaisalmer and a camel trek.
it's my last day in lhasa. the contrast between the old, convoluted, true city and the crisp, almost harsh, linear metropolis surrounding the heart is bewildering. this visit has been essential.
tashi deleg
our day started with a visit into the true heart of old Lhasa, into the Jokhang, surrounded--sometimes overwhelmed--by pilgrims bearing lamps and urns of butter to keep the many chapels lit and filled with yak butter soot, breathing ancient faith. i somehow found the courage to offer three from-standing-to-hands-and-knees prostrations before entering the temple. surrounded and stared at by people of such deep and almost impenetrable faith was a moment of true wonder for me, but it was really for Lungre and Sonam. i have felt their presence constantly here.
we tried to visit the Dropenling Handicraft Development Center, part of the Tibet Artisan Initiative, deep in the maze of streets and lanes of old Lhasa, but arrived to find a notice on the door advising us that it is closed for the "winter" season. i had hoped to support the initiative, but will settle for encouraging anyone reading this to check it out if you're ever in Lhasa. (i consoled myself by finding a gift...for someone...made by the Tibet Association for the Deaf.)
in the afternoon, for more comprehensive exterior photo-ops, we revisited The Potala, which ranks as the most photogenic architectural monument i've yet encountered. there may be others lurking in other, non-euclidian corners of the globe. i don't know if i could cope with the wonder.
Prakisha was craving french fries, so we ducked into a Dicos, sort of a Chinese amalgam of KFC and Macdonald's. i saved my container. you'll all understand why when you see it. (i couldn't find a link to their webpage, but i've got a photo....and a fry container.)
i'm a bit anxious about returning to kathmandu tomorrow. it still crackles with the scent of failure and it also means i have only a few days to make some more concrete plans for india. as The Reluctant Planner, i feel queasy. in any event, if we can change our tickets, Bonnie has asked me to fly to delhi with her on december 20 rather than december 21 since she has more work to do there. so my solo journey will truly begin on december 22. i'm still hoping to be in Rajasthan for christmas, though i may not get as far as Jaisalmer and a camel trek.
it's my last day in lhasa. the contrast between the old, convoluted, true city and the crisp, almost harsh, linear metropolis surrounding the heart is bewildering. this visit has been essential.
tashi deleg
posted by allan at
2:40 a.m.
1 Comments:
Hey allan .. How are you?.. looks like you are having a wonderful experinces. I am glad you are traveled South Asia.
My friends googled my name and found your page which was pretty intersting. Seeing my name in your blog was a surprise but it was fun reading it.
there are some parts that are not correct abt me.. but thats cool..
Born in nepal, moved to canada when I was 17 .. living in brampton..:D.. ehehhe..
Lhasa's Frech fries and Napkin incident.. do u remember?? when I asked for Pepper .. they gave me napkins.. lol.. fun stuff..
take care.. my email prakisha_pradhan@hotmail.com
keep in touch .
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